Upgrade the Hope Vision 2 to an XML beast

from 480 lumens to 1200 lumens PRICE £75 INC RETURN POSTAGE

Before the upgrade on full power



after the upgrade on full power



Here is how it can be achieved but I take no responsibility if you destroy you nice Hope light .

Take a good look and be sure you are able to do soldering to small terminals



then its time to attack it with the tools

The front comes off easily after the removal of the 2 bolts could be allen bolts or Torx just to delay you because you have the wrong tool and need to go out and buy some more



You do not need to do anything with the front so keep it clean and put to one side

2 more bolts and the led carrier is loose snip the wires you are going to chuck away the leds once removed from the carrier.



a screw to remove in the centre of the driver board and it is loose and can be pulled out
it will be easier if you push the power cable through the grommet
and snip the 2 power input cables .



You now need to extend the 2 power input tails solder and heat shrink the extentions on and I then apply some glue or silicone to the cable and zip tie as a security measure and push back into place



the old leds need to come out of the carrier so heat makes this easier and dont worry about hurting them as they are to be discarded



then clean up the carrier with some solvent and wire wool so as to have a good surface to glue in you nice new XML leds
using some Artic Alumina thermal epoxy glue in you leds





the thermal glue works best the thinner it is between the 2 surfaces so a clamp is a good idea but take great care now as the leds are a bit delicate and it is easy to knock a dome off leaving you without a light and needing to spend for a replacement

the switch needs installing so open up the hole with a drill / dremmel / file
and add 2 wires to your switch I use Apem IP67 Mom switches




Now you need to fabricate a little holder for the Taskled LFLEX Driver from www.taskled.com
this will bolt to the centre pillar I have used a scrap 3 mm thick piece of aluminium wthe a 3 mm hole counterbored so the bolt is flush with the surface .

IT IS VERY VERY IMPORTANT THAT THIS DRIVER BOARD IS WELL ADHERED TO THE MOUNT USING THE THERMAL DOUBLE SIDED TAPE .
So cleanliness is paramount and warm it up first with a hair dryer will make the tape stick better .



Being a cynical bugger I also dab some advesive around the driver after it is installed as you dont want it to fall off the heatsink .



All that is left is to solder all the wires to your driver board so now the fun bit



it would be good if you also had some thermal grease to aid heat transfer to the case from the led carrier small tubes are available from Maplins

and reassemble the light a bit of silicone grease on the oring make for an easy slip fit


you now have it looking normal again



the moment of truth will it work , well if you have done it right when you plug the power in it will start flashing and then come on this is your eureka moment

if nothing happens you have done something bad and tears may ensue.

OK you have a light that is working Huh its not as bright as the original ---- Bastid Trout.
no You should have RTFM on the Tasklled web site for the driver board before you started
now read it again because you will need to program the driver to your preferred settings

this is where you can screw up big time

the most important settings are the drive current and the thermal monitoring
so pay attention to those and getting it right .
I set it to 50 or 60 degrees c

and the drive current to 2 amps or for longer runtimes 1.5 amps

PRICE FOR ME TO DO THE CONVERSION
£ 75 INC RETURN POSTAGE